Marty Schmidt
I read that a father and son had died climbing K2 and I thought, “What father-son duo would ever climb K2?” As soon as the thought formed in my head I realized I knew the answer – Marty Schmidt and his son. What a loss!
I climbed Aconcagua in the late 1980s with Marty, when we were both young assistant climbing guides. I loved Marty’s company; he was fun, upbeat, thoughtful and kind. I was not only the most junior staff in terms of climbing guide experience, but also the only woman on a trip with 16 men. There were a lot of tough things about that trip, but Marty was one of the bright spots.
Like many people who devote themselves full-time to a life of mountaineering, he was quirky guy. Not large in stature, built more like a rock climber with a gymnast’s compact physique. He carried a small container of special cream all the way up and down Aconcagua, rubbing it on the nascent laugh lines at the corners of his eyes. This behavior was unusual for a male climber in the 80s, but he told me he planned to always be a climbing guide and to live a long time, and didn’t want his skin to age too much. Looking at a recent photo of him I have to say he wasn’t successful at fighting the laugh lines. Then again, he laughed a lot.
He valued the spiritual life one found in the mountains, and had a few unusual views. I once found a statement from him on-line that he planned to live 120 years. I wished him luck but feared that wasn’t exactly how things would go down.
After Aconcagua he was excited to head off to a commune in Australia for the birth of his first child. My memory is he planned for his girlfriend to give birth in a salt water pool while dolphins swam in the water at the time of childbirth.
As his son Denali Schmidt grew up I think it would have been impossible for Marty not to share his love of climbing with him. In recent years they knocked off impressive feats, including putting up a super hard route named ‘Dad and Son’ on the peak Denali was named for. Marty expressed that spending several months a year with his grown son pursuing something they both loved was a joy few fathers have. (Here’s a link to a movie Denali made about climbing in Alaska with his dad.)
Apparently on K2 during this July climbing season the avalanche conditions were bad, and finally the other six parties on the mountain retreated to base camp, while Marty and Denali went up to Camp 3. In the evening Marty reported by phone they were successfully at Camp 3, and wanted to scout the rest of the route to see if it was passable in deep snow. It appears that a huge avalanche came through later that night and swept them both away. I hope they went quickly. For lots of reasons their bodies have not been found and there is no effort to retrieve them.
Avalanches are one of the dark handmaidens of death in the mountains. Assessing the risk from potential avalanches is tough, especially on big committing mountains (and if K2 isn’t a big committing mountain, I don’t know what is).
My understanding is that the Buddha did not address what happens to us after death. My own opinion is that anyone who says they know what happens to us after we pass away is undoubtedly completely wrong. Others, including Zen teacher Brad Warner, express a view that we are part of the universe and some part/energy remains after our physical death.
I have also heard dying referred to in Buddhist communities as “The Great Leap”. That phrase would have pleased Marty who loved leaping into the unknown, traveling to mysterious and formidable places. Dear friend, rest in peace on K2, the mountain you said you loved above all other mountains.